When I worked in printing I re…. It’s always sticky still. I used with Walnut and it works really well (very hidden glue line). Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is the first hide glue to be offered in a liquid, ready-to-use form. Titebond 1 = carpenters glue. However, I’ve never heard of birdsmouth construction techniques, so I will definitely do a Google search and look into it…thanks for letting me know about it because like you said, I’m sure weight will be an issue with the paddles. CA glue can also be tinted or colored…. good to know. Lastly, the biggest issue I have with the PVA’s is repair. If you clamp them tight you’ll starve the joint. Hot hide glue (NOT hide glue from a bottle) or fish glue are favorites to deal with issues 1, 2, and 3. But I do appreciate that there has been someone who finally explained it in a manner I can understand. Rub-jointing is simply planing two meeting edges straight and near square and then applying glue. 03-27-2017, 10:17 PM #2. If you saw it you’d agree and I also like that it’s clear and blends in with the stain. I’ve used many gallons of it on laminated arches. With the hide glue, I can soften with warm water and wipe up any glue residue. Should I glue the bench top or use 2 1/2″ #8 screws? Some of these paddles will be used for running bigger whitewater, so they need to be strong and durable. Yikes! I am trying to find out if titebond II glue will stick to itself. If a previously glued joint comes loose, PVA glue does not bond effectively because the pores are clogged, which makes for a weak joint. There are formulations that work with the same physical properties, but are much more difficult to blush and less reactive to people. Looking at Rockler’s current pricing on quarts, we have $8.59 for Titebond Original, $10.49 for Titebond II, and $13.99 for Titebond III. After 24 hours I could not break the joint by upper body pressure and indeed I could pull the workbench around the shop with just that thin band of glue a thousandth of an inch thick. Epoxies sometimes stiffen with age in their containers. I repair a lot of furniture and Gorilla Glue, or any other polyurethane glue is not really glue at all, it’s a polyurethane foam that sticks to things well. Another great response, Marc, and very helpful to us newbies. oz. Do you have any numbers on bond strength? Subscribe to Paul's YouTube to make sure you don't miss out on his latest videos! It requires no mixing, heating or stirring. Titebond 28 oz. Btw titebond liquid hide isn’t a true hide glue but synthetic, only OBG uses high quality hide glue. Was it pre or post construction? The stuff is very pricey and I had never used it before. I’m building a cedar strip kayak and need the glue on the strip to set up so that I can move on to the next strip. If I had one I would probably get some TB III in a small bottle for that project. But it would be nice to have actual numbers to know exactly how much strength is being sacrificed and if it’s enough to worry about. I always give honest opinions, findings, and experiences on products. I’m on the Tite Bond 3 train, doesn’t hurt to cover all your bases. I am restoring an old mahogany desk for my grandson to use, and it has a leather top. Two alternatives I recommend are the blush free formulations from http://www.epoxyproducts.com and the “Marinepoxy” from http://www.bateau.com. I’d use a true wood filler like Timbermate. By this I mean highly loaded structures, frequently soaked or immersed joints and repairs should be considered before making the TiteBond decision. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate. And speaking of Titebond glues, you can pick up all of your glue supplies and accessories in our Amazon Store. I could tell that the joints where I applied the glue first were already pretty dry, pretty sticky, and the squeeze out was pretty minimal. Something like epoxy would work nicely. Yes, I did follow the instructions and squeeze air out before capping. I am looking for some advice on gluing up oak fascia boards, I am lap joining 4- 30x120mm oak panels together with Sipo Dominos (Festool Dominos) ever 300mm aswell to hold the joint nice and tight. I prefer titebond II over original for one reason, finger cleanup. If you want to use liquid, go with Old Brown Glue. As with instruments when you need to split the line to take the fingerboard off a violins for instance. I left a unopened gallon jug of TB I on a shelf over the winter and it was a thick unusable glob when I opened it in the spring. I had to go through a whole stack of 2×4’s just to find a few that were relatively straight grained and defect free, but it’s worth the trouble if you want light weight. On something so small it might be ok. If you’re building indoor furniture correctly, you don’t need to “cover your bases.” Just as the Whisperer said, a proper joint/construction with Titebond I is incredibly strong. I’m not a big fan of Gorilla glue because of the foaming — you have to keep wiping it for about half an hour — but it does have it’s uses. $10.99 (1) NEW! Once our recommendation is provided, carefully review all product information to ensure you have made the best selection. It’s not the same but in some limited situations it’s a decent substitute. I don’t know their specific limitations, but I think any of these glues would have resulted in the same gloopy mess. One thing for the hobbyist to keep in mind is expiration dates. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you! I am using a 3/4″ X 4″ X 93″ plywood dado to join them. Open time seemed to me to be about 1/2 an hour, plenty long enough for all assembly procedures and certainly an advantage in complex glue ups. i bought the stuff because it was supposed to be the ultimate glue and it was on sale at the time so i went with it thinking that it couldn’t hurt to go with the best. I would be interested to know if the Gorilla Wood Glue has similar strength. From my experience, all of these PVA-type glues respond poorly to temperature extremes. Want to stay up to date with Paul's blog? This is why you see lots of spruce employed. Obviously I can cover it, but it’s still going to be exposed to winters and summers and some inevitable moisture. This is a function of the test process for the type 1 qualification. TiteBond I and II are somewhat water resistant, with II much more so than I, so indoor use is just fine. I never knew the differences until now. Nice to get a refresher about the uses of the 3 Titebonds. Funny you should ask that did cross my mind after I made the post I did notice a bit of stickiness and thought damn it hasn’t cured. I recently found out what they mean about “shorter shelf life” for Gorilla glue. Titebond Liquid Hide Wood Glue lists cyanoguanidine (used in the manufacture of plastics and pharmaceuticals) and ammonium thiocyanate (used chiefly as a herbicide and in textile printing). Both have similar physical attributes of the major industry players, but at half the price. I’m starting to get into marquetry and the person that introduced me to it always uses TB II glue for the finished project to the substrate. I’ve left TB3 bottles open for 48 hours with no ill effects. Maybe a silly question but—will either Titebond II or III bond to a wood surface which has been stained which contained a sealer as well? For example some applications might need a high modulus of elongation, while others might need to be quite rigid, both easily handled with reinforcement materials. Introducing water-based adhesive is always problematic without total surface pressure as the veneers generally expand too and this causes the veneer to curl almost immediately. Also, IF II and III have relatively the same water resistance, as stated above, what advantage does the III have, if any? By the time this gets someone’s attention I might reply with my experience. Now get off this thread and go spend your time on becoming a master with construction methods! TiteBond III does pass this test (just barely), but epoxy doesn’t. Thanks for getting back to me Marc, and I appreciate the links and helpful advice! the majority won out on the decision to purchase TB2. If you have screw reinforcement, that should keep you in good shape for quite some time. There is only one joint that connects the neck to the main body on these traditional bowed instruments. What’s a good guess (informed or otherwise) about whether Titebond III will inhibit graying/silvering? I couldn’t find a place for a question, so I’m posting my question here. The disadvantage to a CA glue is it does not have the sheer strength of PVA glue, and you usually have less than a minute till it sets. I’m a clock maker and I’ve tried and tested various glues but never properly this one only due to a mishap of hammering a brad in an lightly I might add and it broke the glue joint. You might be able to reduce it to almost nothing though if you actually wash the surface prior to the glue skinning over with a clean wet cotton cloth. One thing I can also add… Titebond III does NOT wash out of T-shirts… B-). Marc mentioned that the 150F strength for Titebond III drops to 800 psi, and the Web site also shows the wood failure rate for this same temperature is 0% (zero). Great summary – you should put this on the new forum in the joinery/construction section. But I still build with movement in mind just because you never know. West System.com and System Three,com have free download user guides. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue. Elmer’s White glue, that staple of school projects, is a polyvinyl glue which never gets really hard; hence most woodworkers don’t use it on serious projects. Original is best for instruments because it has no “creep factor”, which 2 and 3 do. (That hickory board I’m planning to use for one of the paddle shafts sure is heavy!) TiteBond II can see moderate exposure to moisture, but will “let go” if prolonged exposure is encountered. Even though glue joints can be as strong as the wood, for outdoor applications gluing AND screwing is often the best way to go. I wonder how old the glue is or how long you have had it since it opened the bottle. Dan Erlewine uses three glues for this repair, and each has different properties. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. I have handles going both ways but didn't consider sizing them by direction. Titebond III – 800 psi (yes that’s an 80% loss from the room temp value) Since all PVA adhesives form a plastic film when dried this plastic will effectively melt once a sufficiently high temperature is reached. So as the wood becomes more and more sealed, the glue becomes less and less effective. Another wonderful application of Titebond 3 is using it as a wood sealer. Which is it? I’m a fan. I don?t worry about glue strength because everything I have seen or read shows that the wood breaks before glue joint (with Titebond I). Required fields are marked *. I do this frequently to get contrasting colors in the laminate, though usually I stick with all hard or all softwoods. Titebond 4 oz. If the wood is sealed, that can’t happen. The only reason to use West System is some of their specialty resin/hardener formulations, such as low modulus of elongation, or infusion mixtures. And they deal with issue 4 as well. With heated adhesive the glue pulls as it shrinks back down and pulls the veneer to the substrate. Just about everything is an irritant to some extent. Should bind to just about anything. I also liked the consistency of the liquid, exactly the right viscosity for application and it of course worked well with the spreader-spout as I could give a thick or thin spread depending on the pressure and angle of presentation. It seems to have faded away. You either need to remove that glue and then repeat the glueup or you need to switch to a different adhesive. Also check out some of the adhesives for sale at Jamestown Distributors: http://www.jamestowndistributo.....;page=GRID. Try that with yellow glue. If it’s due to milling issues or technique, it doesn’t matter what glue you use. If you pass that time it will create a dry layer on top. Find Titebond glues at Lowe's today.